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Not all the New City architecture of French Casablanca survived independence. One amazing structure that was torn down to make way for an equally amazing mosque was the Orthlieb Pool. Named for Georges Orthelieb, a municipal dignitary of Casablanca, the pool was a sea water pool with a giant spiral slide built on the rocks along the shore.

The pool was designed by architect Maurice L'Herbier. It opened in 1934 but fell into disrepair after Independence. It was demolished in 1981 to be replaced by the great Hassan II Mosque. The Hassan II Mosque is the second largest operating mosque in Africa and the seventh largest in the world.

The mosque was designed by French architect Michel Pinseau as directed by King Hassan II. Artisans from all over the kingdom took part in its construction. Its minaret looks out over the sea from a height of 689 feet. It is topped by a laser which directs light beams in the direction of Mecca. The walls are marble. The roof is retractable.

The basic plan of the building is a basilica rather than the more common T plan. The Qibia is perpendicular to the naves. The prayer hall is on the ground floor. The central hall features underwater views of the Atlantic Ocean. Also in the hall are domes with hanging glass chandeliers. The minaret is ocean green and turquoise blue.

The mosque can accommodate as many as 105,000 souls; 25,000 inside and 80,000 outside. It is east of the El Hank lighthouse, on a promontory overlooking the sea. In his birthday remarks in 1980, the king said, he wanted to build the mosque on the water so that the faithful, "... can contemplate God's sky and ocean." The king got his wish.

Go to number 248 Boulevard Sour Jdid, Place du Jardins Public in Casablanca, act natural, knock twice and ask for Rick. That would be a fun way to wind up a busy day in the Old City. There is no Rick, but this is his place; a restaurant cafe that opened in Casablanca in 2004. It is modeled on the shady dive made famous by Humphrey Bogart.

The owners are The Usual Suspects company. They maintain this cafe is the real McCoy. Rick's Cafe was conceived by Ms Kathy Kriger. Kathy retired from the diplomatic service after the 9/11 attacks. Alarmed at the "war on terrorism", she made her bid for tolerance by investing in a Muslim country. The result was Rick's Place. Kathy died in 2018.

The cafe is in a renovated Moroccan mansion with a courtyard built in 1930. Two palm trees stand on either side of the front door. There are three facades. There is a main entrance with sturdy wooden doors as in the movie. There are also a facade facing the sea and a dead-end service entrance.

American architect Bill Willis brought back the architectural details of the film. He developed the curved arches, the sculpted bar, the balconies, balustrades, the lighting, the plants and the shadowy white walls. The fireplaces are made from carved marble and painted tiles. The floors are terra cotta tiles.

There is a Pleyel piano and music every night Tuesday through Sunday. There are often jam sessions with musicians passing through town. Play it again, Sam.

In 1515 the Portuguese established fortifications next to the place they called "Casa Branca." Technically, the fortification could be called a bastion, a scala or sqala. The sqala, renovated in the 18th century, exists in the old city today but it is now a fortified restaurant, established to fortify against that empty feeling.

La Sqala is nestled in the yellow-orange walls of the bastion at the edge of the old city. It is a peaceful garden restaurant, especially famous for breakfast. What's on the menu in the morning? How about briouates (stuffed pastries), tajines, bastilles (spicy sweet pies) and brochettes (kebabs). Sorry, no alcohol, but there's lots of juice.

The restaurant is attractively designed. The feeling is of a quiet garden haven, away from the busy city. Whatever the hour, try the pastille cream dessert and Moroccan tea. The important things about a restaurant are food, yes, service, yes, and location, location, location.

Nestled in the northern part of Casablanca, between the bustling port and the majestic seafront Hassan II Mosque, lies the Old Medina, a historical gem that transports visitors back to pre-20th century Casablanca. This area, the original core of the city, contrasts sharply with the sprawling modern city that surrounds it. Characterized by a labyrinth of narrow alleyways and a vibrant souk, the Old Medina is encased by the remnants of ancient walls, standing as a testament to the city's rich heritage.

The Old Medina embodies a typical Arab cityscape with winding paths and surprising twists that immerse visitors in a vibrant atmosphere highlighted by local culinary scents, traditional sights, and lively sounds. It offers a unique shopping experience with markets on every corner, selling everything from fresh produce to furniture, antiques, clothing, and accessories. The architecture showcases Arab-Muslim influences in its design and decorations.

Despite lacking the medieval allure found in many Moroccan medinas, the 19th-century Casablanca Medina is still a worthy exploration site. The everyday shops predominantly sell hardware, pharmaceuticals, and inexpensive clothing and shoes. Yet, the charm of the Medina's whitewashed, crooked lanes, occasionally tree-shaded squares, and lively local cafes make it a favored path for those strolling from downtown Casablanca to the Hassan II Mosque.

On the northern side, facing the port, visitors can view the remnants of Casablanca鈥檚 18th-century fortifications, known as the sqala. This bastion provides panoramic views over the sea, offering a picturesque vantage point that captures the essence of Casablanca鈥檚 historical and cultural landscape.

Why You Should Visit:
Great things to see and buy at reasonable prices (good for bargaining), and you'll also get to be near the old forts and city walls as you wind your way through the narrow alleys.

Tip:
The people who live and work in the Medina sometimes do not like your presence, especially when taking photos of their homes or their businesses. Ask for permission first!
If you're looking for items that are a bit more upscale, try the Nouvelle (New) Medina in the Quartier of Habous. Be warned, however, that prices will be more upscale, too.

Mohammed V Square in Casablanca is popularly referred to as "Pigeons' Square." It seems literally carpeted with pigeons. They never go away. Are they waiting for something?

The square is named for Mohammed V, celebrated former King of Morocco. It has had other names: Main Square, Square of France, Square of Victory, Administrative Square and Marshal Lyautey Square. The square is just south of the the old city, in an area once occupied by the barracks of French Colonial Troops.

The plan to build a square was formed by Henri Prost and Joseph Marrast in 1916. It was destined to be part of the new "European City." Hubert Lyautey, the Resident General, was dreaming of Place Stanislaus in his native city of Nancy, France. He wanted the Mohammed V Square to be like that.

New buildings went up around the square in the style of Moorish Revival so liked by architect Henri Proust. On the sides are: the Court House built in 1923; the Military Circle built in 1925; the Bank Al-Maghrib built in 1937; the Central Post Office built in 1920; the Wilaya Building built in 1937; and the French Consulate-General built in 1922.

The Grand Theatre of Casablanca by Christian de Portzamparc was built in 2020 and the large circular fountain, the "Pigeons' Fountain", was repositioned as the square was renovated and repaved.

As long as the French ran the show in Morocco, a Catholic cathedral in Casablanca was not inconceivable. The cathedral was not officially a cathedral anyway. It was never the seat of a bishop. Although it certainly was big enough. So, it was officially a church, properly known as the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus.

After independence in Morocco, the Cathedral ceased to be a church. It was converted to use as a school and then as a cultural center. It is a tourist attraction not dedicated to any particular use. But it is huge. It has been described as "breathtaking."

The style is Art Deco with neo-Gothic and Moorish touches, especially in the two great bell towers flanking the entrance. Architect Paul Tournon started his project in 1930. Money was in short supply, so he built section by section from the altar out. He planned on ten bays, or sections. He completed three. The full cathedral was finished in 1952.

The Church of the sacred Heart has five naves separated by columns. This is novel. Most European cathedrals have three naves. This was reminiscent of early Christian architecture in Africa. It was the intention of Tournon that the cathedral should tower over all the mosques.

Without the religious function, the vast empty cathedral seems anachronous. The Cathedral can be found by the Arab League Park, the biggest park in the city.